>Yesterday afternoon, I set up a pretty table in the garden shade under the canvas sails we put up in the summer and served our family’s favourite meal at 4: A proper Devon cream tea. The sort of food that makes you grateful (for once) to live in a country that is still able to produce the kind of thick golden clotted cream you long for at tea-time with a hot spelt and buttermilk scone and some light-infused strawberry jam.
But scones don’t always have to be sweet. They can be savoury and complement perfectly a round and rich champagne with a brioche hint or a lemony dry white. Last week at a tasting party, I served my usual scone recipe but put in the mix a sprinkle of Herbes de provence and some cracked pepper plus a chunk of grated mature cheddar. When the scones were baked, I sliced them in two and put a dollop of mascarpone inside. The two cheeses combine for a creamy, rustic taste and nobody can resist this duet! That was the only time I chose to be disloyal to English clotted cream with an italian contender. It was worth it.